Goodbye Lake Atitlan |
Goodbye San Pedro La Laguna |
I took a bus up toward Coban. Just South, there is the Biotopo del Quetzal. The Quetzal is the national bird of Guatemala. Both the currency and the second city, Quetzaltenango (tenango just means "place of" - there are many in Guatemala), are named after it. The bird is highly elusive, brilliantly colored, and plays a significant role in the legends & stories of Mesoamerica. If I discuss it here, this blog will quickly reach epic proportions. If your curiosity remains, many places on the internet can elighten you. Anyway, basically everyone I encountered, including many text resources, assured me that seeing one for myself would be next to impossible. Thus, it became my next mission. Truth be told, one day I was talking to my maestra in Xela about tattoos. I told her if I was lucky enough to see a Quetzal, I would commit it to my body in ink. Mi proximo tatuaje. Sorry, dad - maybe it'll be the last one? So, I arrived at the Biotopo after dark. Not a thing was open, and one of the only two accommodations around was pitch black and obscured by a threatening gate. It was really creepy actually. So, I strolled down to the other, fingers crossed, and encountered a lovely mother and daughter who came out to welcome me.
Next thing I knew, she was educating me about the landscape, while patiently keeping her ear out for movement. At the drop of a hat, she yelled "Corre!" and we ran through the forest together, cameras in hand. And, sure enough.. quetzales! I was so thrilled. And managed to get a few photos too. Once perched, they stay perfectly still indefinitely, and thus, even with their vibrant colors, they can be next to impossible to spot in the trees. Fortunately, I was with a professional, apparently. They're funny looking, huh?
Okay, I'm never going to transcribe my experiences up until this point at this rate. But, honestly, seeing a Quetzal was really exciting for me. Plenty of Guatemalans have never even seen a Quetzal. I asked them.
So, that same day, I packed up and walked to the road. Literally within two minutes of hitting the street, a microbus stopped for me. These shuttles have become quite popular, and entail comparable rates to chicken buses (though with a bit more comfort). That being said, they still cram people on like crazy. So, I was on my way to Lanquin, a small town North of Coban. Basically, any traveler that goes to Lanquin has their sights set on Semuc Champey. This natural wonder totally blew my mind. Well, it was a full day of activity, really.
First, we entered the cuevas, underground caves (that's redundant isn't it?) with water flowing through. In my excitement for the day, I failed to consider that I am mildly claustrophobic. But, I took the plunge (literally), and did my best to ignore my psychological aversions. It wasn't too hard either. Some parts were so deep, we had to swim. Holding our candles above the water, and trying not to bang our knees on hidden rocks. Then there was rope and ladder climbing, and even "cliff" jumping inside the cave. The cliffs were only about 2.5 meters high, but in the dark, without my glasses, it was pretty thrilling. Anyway, I don't have photos obviously, but my friends, Jarrod & Alesha, had an underwater camera, so I look forward to seeing those photos.
Then, there was rope swinging, inner tubing, and even bridge jumping!
Hard to see when it's small, but the expression on my face is really hilarious - I swear it was higher than it looks here :) |
Walking up on the overlook was captivating. What lie below simply didn't look real.
Ohh, but it was! And then we got to swim in it!
So, Semuc Champey ("Sacred Water") is basically a naturally formed bridge. It's an incredibly beautiful & quite serene collection of limestone pools that mask the raging Cahabaon River below.
After a few nights in a lovely hostel on the same river, I again traveled North to Flores, a quaint town that is technically a very tiny island. The town itself is enjoyable, but it's also the gateway to Tikal, a very large Mayan ruin. Fascinating.
And wildlife! Howler Monkeys are super loud, baby Spider Monkeys are adorable, Coati are fearless, Tarantulas are super soft, and Toucans are absolutely stunning.
Templo IV is the tallest in all of Tikal - I felt like I could see for miles & miles |
After a couple days in Flores, I started heading South again. By the way, I've been the jungle this whole time, and still have the mosquito scars on my legs to prove it. The beauty of the jungle, however, far superceded the physical trauma. I'm just glad I'm not sick from dengue or dead from malaria.
My next stop was Rio Dulce (formerly, Fronteras), a small fishing village in far East Guatemala.
Castillo de San Felipe, just West of Rio Dulces - built in the 16th century to ward off Pirates |
All those white things are lovely flowers growing from lily pads |
So now I've finally made it to Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage site and Guatemala's most famous city. Being the most expensive city in Guatemala & due to its proximity to La Ciudad's airport, I decided it was a good ending point. It's definitely interesting here. And not like any other place I've visited in Guatemala. The streets are all cobblestone, the older buildings display stunning architecture, the colors are vibrant, the stray dogs prevalent in other cities are mysteriously absent, the city is incredibly diverse (with lots of tourists no doubt, but plenty of natives as well), and overall, the unique beauty of the town is coveted. I do quite like it.
World's largest rosary |
And now, my return to Austin is impending. I have had a number of thoughts about how this trip has impacted me, and as I work to make sense of it all, I continue to feel incredibly grateful for the opportunity I've had. I'm returning to Austin with a number of newfound understandings about myself and the world around me, and perhaps at some point, I'll be able to articulate them here. I've struggled at points to understand what the point of making this web log was. I suppose on the most fundamental level, it's fun to recount my experiences. I hope they're also at least mildly entertaining to read. Plus, now you don't have to feel obliged to ask me about my trip :) But also, I'd like to feel like I've illustrated the tiniest shred of evidence that this world we have is full of beauty and wonder. And is ripe for exploration. Travelling doesn't have to be an expensive or time consuming endeavor. Indeed, there's something quaintly satisfying about being in a foreign place and doing absolutely nothing all day. (And by that I mean reading a book, or taking a walk, or sitting outside someplace & people-watching.) And otherwise, many opportunities are available for exploring the unknown in an affordable fashion. I highly recommend it, as I feel that exposure to new people and new places and new experiences is something that sparks enthusiasm and creativity and genuine happiness in all of us. That is, if we're willing to open ourselves to the possibilities.