Thursday, July 28, 2011

Phew!

Well. We did it. We've done quite a lot actually. We left Hilo last Saturday after visiting their amazing Farmers Market. We bid our farewells to Bob and made our way down to the bus stop. And waited. And saw some buses come through And then waited some more, until our bus was almost an hour late! Eventually, when no one remained at the station, a nice older lady helped us. "Your bus already came," she said. It apparently came to the station saying one thing, and then changed its destination listing after it was out of our sight! I felt tricked. And naturally, disappointed. I wanted to be in our cozy little cottage. After a bit of discussion, we decided to call Bob. And in a weird, everything-always-works-out sort of way, Bob was already heading to that part of the island to see some music. So, not only did he pick us up right away, he took us to see some cool music in Kalapana, which is a town that was completely wiped out by volcanic eruption in the 90s. So, we walked out toward the beach, and it was craaaazy. It felt like we were walking on another planet. Dark black lava with beautiful patterns, for as far as the eye could see. This foreign terrain was accompanied only by a number of baby coconut trees, all hauled in by locals, but none reaching more than three feet tall. And that night, the stars were in full bloom, as was the moon. But only temporarily, as all were obscured by clouds, almost as quickly as they had arrived.
Anyway, I'll try not to get too wordy here. Obviously, I can't put it all in here. Or even put it all into words for that matter. So for the next two nights, we stayed in this tiny little cottage that was super sweet! And that Sunday, Rachel and I decided, might have been the best day ever. We slept in, walked & explored, took a nap, ate an avocado with Have A Corn Chips, and relaxed at Kehena black sand beach, just a 10
minute walk away. Every Sunday there's a drum circle and a bunch of hippies there. We actually went the nexy Sunday too, with our Wwoof family. It's absolutely stunning!
Speaking of our Wwoof family, that is an experience I will never forget. And frankly, I don't think I can begin to describe it right now. Maybe it's too soon. Anyway, suffice it to say, it was a real experience. One that made Rachel & I very happy that we had eachothers' company for. Work-wise, we tended a very nice greenhouse, with basil, avocado, coffee, tomatoes, marijuana, lettuce, and a few other species. They also had a bunch of chickens & roosters, and even a stallion, a mare, & their 3-week old colt! If you've never seen a horse that young, it's not as small as you think. But cuter than you can imagine :) There were also a number of humans there: Robin, her 24-year-old son, his two baby sons, her two adopted sons, and two other Wwoofers. So, it was a bit overwhelming at first, but everyone was very welcoming and accommodating. In general, my experience in Hawaii has been that of friendliness and support, with locals and tourists alike.
Unfortunately, my physical health has suffered a bit. Last Friday, Robin suggested a number of projects we could work on for the day, and one of them was to build a fire that would burn a number of invasive weeds that had been chopped down on the land. I enthusiastically volunteered for this task. Unfortunately, my confidence waned quickly. Somehow in my excitement of fire, I failed to remember how dang wet everything is. It was an observation I had already made; even the dead leaves on the ground are flexible and stretchable because everything is just so saturated in water from frequent rain. So, starting a fire was incredibly challenging. I collected some dead banana leaves that Rachel was clearing out, and they burned quite nicely. In fact, they burned too nicely, and just went up in smoke faster than anything else could ignite. Long story short, I burned the shit out of my thumb, with excessive lighter usage, and managed to produce heaps of smoke. As a matter of fact, smoking was about all I could get it to do. I will say that I felt a little better when the other two Wwoof-er dudes came over, and they couldn't get it to start either. We basically worked this project the entire morning, and were never successful. What I was successful with was inhaling copious amounts of smoke. And, I mean literally for hours, I ingested it into my lungs and stomach. By that evening, I was riddled with a severe headache and intense chest pain. The next morning it was intensified, and I was absolutely worthless all day. As a matter of fact, I still have residual stomach pain from the experience, almost a week later. That, combined with the VOG that is ever-present, impacted me more than anticipated. But, I'm still in Hawai'i. Additionally, at some point, I was bitten by a spider on my back while we were in the woods. It wasn't too bad I guess, but it did inflate a bit, which was pretty nasty. Rachel patiently drained the puss from it just a couple days ago. I think she loves me.
As stated, we again went to Kehena Beach last Sunday, though this time we went earlier in the day, so there were lots more people. This meant exceptional people-watching, one of my favorite pastimes. I didn't go in the water this time because I was still a bit charred inside. Plus, that beach had its way with me the Sunday before. Rachel and I giddily ran into the water before being slammed by large waves that look so mellow from afar. At one point, I needed to pee so I dived in further, and the water (undertow) effectively held me under until it washed my helpless body up the shore. I was coughing out my mouth and losing other fluids out my nose, so I was done for the day. Regardless, there was plenty of other entertainment anyway. Lots of drums, and some performers, and a number of other activities to watch. Plus we were offered plenty of ganga, and in many forms: herbs, cookies, ice cream, hash, and I can't remember what else. I opted for the ice cream, made fresh by the young lady who sold it to me a small tub with a plastic spoon. She cooks the herb in the milk, then makes the ice cream with said milk. Four flavors of it. I chose the Mint Chocolate Chip, made with raw chocolate. It was delicious, and made me feel silly all day.
Finally we left the woods of Mountain View on Monday, and camped in Punalu'u, on the South side of the island. Camping in Hawaii is give and take. Obviously, there's plenty of places to camp, but technically, you're supposed to acquire permits (a rather timely and inconvenient task). But, this is as far as the bus could take us before nightfall, so we explored around a bit, and found a nice isolated spot, where hopefully the park ranger wouldn't find us. After nightfall, we were almost asleep when a flashlight shone into the tent. Someone walked around the perimeter of the tent, shining their light in the whole time. Rachel and I clinched hands in suspense. The visitor eventually walked away, but needless to say, we were pretty freaked out. So, we sat in silence for a while. I slithered over to the door of the tent and tied the two zippers together with Rachel's shoelace. We were literally right on the coast, so it was incredibly windy, and Rachel was convinced that every sound was someone at the door. So, at least they couldn't get in without our consent. (I mean, it is a piece of fabric, so obviously they could, but at times like those, mental tricks result in false comforts.) About 20 minutes later, a flashlight shone in again, and we tensed up. However, this time it lingered, but with no spoken word, so I decided to go out and check it out. Sure enough, it was a local fisherman, gathering his catch and finding his way home. Fortunately, we made it safely through the night. 
Tuesday, we made it to Kailua-Kona, the (other) large city on the West side of the island. This side of the island is notoriously sunny, and the weather is considered that of "eternal springtime." Yep, it's true. Plus, there are lots of white sand beaches on this side of the island, and we're planning to travel up the coast to see a few of them. But, we went to a small beach in the city yesterday, which was actually pretty nice. Not highly populated, and pretty serene. After lounging for a bit, we decided to suit up and approach the ocean. It was a bit more tame than we had before, so I was really excited. Seriously not five minutes into our ascent, a larger wave knocked me sideways, and I put my foot down to stable myself. Unfortunately, I inadvertently chose the back of a sea urchin to place my foot. Ouch! At first, I thought I just cut my foot, so I kept swimming. But then the sting intensified so I picked up my foot in the water to check it out, and was faced by about 30 little black "splinters." I hobbled to the shore to get a better look. At first, we didn't know what it was. All I knew was that is stung pretty bad. So, once we got it all figured out, we doused it with vinegar, as suggested, and let it sit. The vinegar literally dissolves some of the splinters, but unfortunately not the pain. All I could do at that point was laugh. I feel wonderfully humbled by this intensely beautiful and intensely raw & natural place. 
So, now I'm a gimp with an aching stomach, trekking my way through an exotic island. But, it's still really great, and I'm so happy to be here. I'm sure I'll be back.
Last night, we went to the Kona Brewing Company for dinner, and I had my first beer in 11 days (not that I was counting). It was a perfect meal of veggie pizza, Mauna Loa Spinach Salad, and Castaway IPA. SO GOOD! Today we're headed North to camp at the Mahukona Beach, and eventually make our way to Hawi,  a small little town that's supposed to be delightful.
Anyway, if you'd made your way through this epic post, congratulations. Sorry there are no photos to accompany it this time. But, rest assured that many photos do exist. Maybe you'll see them one day. 
I love you all dearly, and miss you a little bit too.

Friday, July 15, 2011

PHOTOS!

So, remember my suggestion about no photos? Well, in the hazy, early morning of our departure date, I decided to bring my camera connector just in case it would work with other computers, and it turns out it does. So, I'll spare you of too many words today, and supplement with photos. (Note: click on photos for larger versions)

Cliché & Awesome


Headed down to the Botanical Gardens

Akaka Falls - 442 feet! & beautiful!

Mackenzie State Park

Bob!

Just another swimming pond

Local BEER!

These Canopy Trees are everywhere in Hilo!
[See Rachel for size perspective]

Hilo is really great. Good size. Friendly people. Relaxed environment. All around nice. Except, it rains. Quite a bit. Actually, it's the rainiest city in the United States, clocking in about 130 inches a year. I think Austin is about 30 inches per year. So, a little more than I'm used to. Nicely, though, it usually falls at night.
Something else I've learned about is the complex simplicity of the Hawaiian language. The alphabet contains only 12 letters - five vowels (A E I O U) & seven consonants (H K L M N P). This actually makes things pretty complicated because the words must be longer to allow for diversity, yet the letters are frequently repeated which lends itself to lots of similarities, especially to the undiscerning amateur. As we were driving around yesterday, I was trying to get my bearings straight, but as we passed each street, it took me long enough to pronounce it in my head, & didn't leave much time to memorize its location. For example, Ken's Pancake House (where we had breakfast this morning) was located at Kanoelelua and Kalanianaole, after it turned from Kamehameha (see below), just one block East of Kalanikoa. Srsly. But, they had veggie bacon, so I'm not complaining.

Fearless leader of yore
Speaking of bacon, I think I'm officially a non-vegetarian. Rachel and I destroyed a five-piece platter of fish and chips yesterday in Pahoa, and it was dang good. We got the mixed basket, containing Ahi, Ono, & Mahi Mahi, all locally sourced. Don't get excited, Johnny, I still have my vegetarian morals, but I understand that traveling really challenges your comforts. Diet is only one of them. And I think fish is currently my limit. Hey, it was ten years ago this month that I stopped eating meat by choice, so I think I've put in some good time.
Anyway, tomorrow we're venturing south to the coast to stay in a nice cottage on Kehena black sand beach. And apparently on Sunday, they have a massive party on the beach with drum circles, hippies, and other guilty pleasures. So, it should be fun. But, probably means not any more posts for a little while...
However, THANKS for all the positive feedback, everyone, about this web log. It's nice to know you're reading. Take care, and Aloha!

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Hawai'i, Day One

We arrived in Hawaii last night, about 8:30 pm, which is about 1:30 am, Texas time. This means we were traveling for 16 hours, and on 4 airplanes. Yes, it was exhausting. And yes, it was worth it.
Our CouchSurfing(.com) host, Robert, picked us up at the airport in Hilo, and drove us to his house. After a nice meal and some hang out time (complete with dirty jokes and excerpts from the Book of Mormon), we turned in to bed, and with the windows open, I could have sworn we were camping. A light rain, a number of crickets, and noisy Koki frogs, an invasive species from Puerto Rico. There were tons of them, and you could tell by the strength of their calls, from many differing distances. While the sound is nice, apparently they are not welcome here. They threaten a number of bird species, as they share the same diet. Anyway, it was a beautiful way to fall asleep.
Today, Robert took us around the island, and introduced us to a number of beaches and other spots of interest. He is an amazing tour guide, and very hospitable to boot. Turns out he's the couchsurfing king of Hilo, and has hosted over 300 people! Rightfully so. He's awesome.
Anyway, I do wish I could post photos. This place is kind of ridiculously beautiful. Just the amount of vegetation alone is striking. Practically everywhere you look!
For now, though, it's time for a beer and a nap.

Tuesday, July 12, 2011

What's a blog?

So, starting this project has been simultaneously fácil y difícil. I've been suggesting I might make an attempt to publicly share my experiences with the internet masses in this here web log. And finally, with about 5 hours left until departing on my months-anticipated journey, I've found a little time to do so. Honestly, Google made it too easy. I already have an email account, so all I had to do was come up with a title. It's a work in progress, I suppose. Google also coaxed me into joining Google+, which is seemingly more & more like Facebook, so I'm already feeling a bit disinterested. However, the prospect of a multiple person group chat might keep me around. Additionally, at some point I'll probably post a photo album on Picasa, and essentially become a Google sell-out.
Anyway, I decided just today that I will not be taking my laptop computer on any leg(s) of my journey, which means a few things. First, there's no guarantee that there will be many of these posts. And second, there will be no updated photos. But, as many of you know, that's no different than usual for me. I'm notoriously terrible at updating photos and sharing them. One day, one day.
So, this probably means that we will need other images and non-text additions to keep your eyeballs happy.


My question is: can I get sued for posting this on my web log? I see the Nat Geo marker there in the corner, so I think I'm good.
Anyway, tonight was my last softball game this year, as the season will come to a close while I am away. The experience was definitely bittersweet, which is a good way to feel about things sometimes. But mostly I was thinking about all the lovely people I know & the remarkable community that I enjoy. I am truly grateful for both of these things. And right now I feel particularly grateful for the opportunity to take this journey. So, many thanks abound.
I found the contents of my backpack interesting: one pair pants, two pairs shorts, two long sleeve shirts, two tank tops, and one versatile dress. For two months. Naturally, most of the space is taken by my tent and sleeping bag, so I don't have much choice. I think it'll be great. It's supposed to be a dang adventure right?!
Anyway, I will try to keep this web log moderately entertaining and potentially educational. Other than that, I'm not exactly sure what is the purpose and/or intention of its creation.

Double sued